May 20, 2007
by: Lindsay Core
Last weekend we went to Kumasi (Ghana’s second-biggest city after Accra) ready for a big-city experience after a week of village life. However, we arrived to a darkened city because of the power outages. In Kumasi the outages are on a rotating schedule with the power off for the 12 hours of the day, then a full-day of power, and then the power is off for 12 hours of the night. In Konongo the outages are supposedly scheduled as well, however we have had daily outages. The power sometimes comes on for an hour or two, and then shuts off for six, only to come on again for another hour before being out until the following day.
For the Canadians, the outages are annoying and frustrating because of the lack of warning, but the lack of electricity doesn’t limit our activities too much. For Ghanaians trying to run businesses however, the power outages often result in productivity grinding to a halt. One businessman was explaining that his business could go international, but without a consistent source of electricity it’s too unstable to be able to increase the size of the company. People have made many adaptations over the past 2 years since the power outages started, many businesses have generators, homes use charcoal or gas stoves, seamstresses use sewing machines with hand cranks, and most people have just come to accept the lack of power as a part of daily life.
The outages are as a result of power sharing across the country. Power sharing means that when one community has power, another is in the dark. When power sharing is described, I imagine a white-haired old man sitting in front of a monstrous panel of switches, with his right hand on one switch and his left on another, flipping one on and one off simultaneously…and then laughing at the power he wields, giving and taking away light at will.
The electricity in Ghana is generated through hydroelectric power. The shortage of electricity is as a result of drought. According to local people whom I’ve asked, the main hydro-generating lake is nearly dry. Currently, it is the rainy season, and based on the weather we’ve been having I can vouch for the drought. During a typical rainy season it will rain for days on end, with bouts of storms bringing down even more rain. Last week it rained most evenings for a couple hours, but it hasn’t rained in more than a week now. This means there literally isn’t enough power to light-up Ghana, it also means that it’s hotter than usual. (It should also be noted that there are many conspiracy theories about the power outages, including that the water shortage is a hoax. The theory goes that with elections next year the current government has been cutting the power now so that they can later “fix” the problem closer to election time in order to get re-elected.)
In addition to power outages in Konongo, there have also been water shortages. I live a 20-minute walk from the YMCA in an area called Low Cost. Last week the water was out for a total of 8 days. Luckily, the woman I’m staying with had giant plastic drums with water stores. We used the stores for bathing, washing our clothes, and flushing the toilet (with a bucket). She has been keeping some of the water in large plastic 20L buckets that were once used for house paint; I’m worried about leeching so I haven’t been using the water for consumption and have instead been buying bottled water all week instead of filtering my own. Most parts of the city (and the YMCA Centre) have boreholes or wells as backup to piped water. On day 4 of the water being out, we hauled water to re-fill our stores.
There are a few bright sides to the water shortages and resulting power outages though. In the evenings that the power is out there is a marked increase in community activity in the streets. At my house, the neighbours and local children will gather in the courtyard to play games and talk by candle-light. A favourite game is Chinese checkers. The game board has the pictures of important people in the four corners: Nelson Mandela, Lady Diana, Ghana’s First President, and Jesus.
During one evening of games, my neighbour asked me why Ghana is poorer than Canada, and why I can afford to visit her country, but she can’t afford to visit mine. What kind of an answer can be given when there is a language barrier, and when she has a limited degree of education? What sort of answer would be just? And for lack of a just answer, what type of answer can I give her without inadvertently saying “that’s the way things are”? The latter answer would not be satisfactory for her, or for me. What other answer can I really give though when I compare two countries which are so different? The country I’m writing from has water and power outages so frequently that they are the rule rather than the exception. In 2002 Canada had a major power outage for 24 hours (if I remember correctly) and it was an event which is still discussed as having been remarkable.
In Canada people rarely think twice about leaving the water running to warm it up or cool it down, nor about allowing it to run while they soap their bodies in the shower, nor about flushing the toilet every time they use it, nor about leaving the air conditioning on in an empty house, nor about leaving televisions on, or computers running. Yet, I’m sure that if Ghanaians had the choice, they wouldn’t think twice about those things either. But instead, they must.
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Saturday, May 12, 2007
Training with Ghanaian Peer Educators in Konongo
Monday May 7th- Thursday May 10th
We spent the past four days with our fellow peer educators training and preparing for our HIV / AIDS workshops. We covered topics ranging from the modes of transmission to preventative measures. We learned how to do condom demonstrations and practiced workshop delivery.
I will admit, that when it came to the actual curriculum of the training, most of what we learned was remedial. That said, I personally found the training to be a wonderful learning experience. We did cover topics that I had questions concerning, it was a great opportunity to bond with our fellow peer educators, and it challenged my preconceptions of what I thought I knew in regards to HIV/AIDS. Obviously the biological make up of the virus does not change depending on where you are in the world. That said, the context, issues, challenges and strategies in relation to the virus are completely different here. You almost need to do a little unlearning, or shedding of your preconceived notions, before you can begin to understand the local challenges and recognize the appropriate methods of change.
While many living with HIV/AIDS in Canada experience stigma, the misconceptions and stigma associated with the virus here are very different. HIV/AIDS is a gender related issue in Africa. As a result, Lindsay, our group facilitator, ran a workshop on sex vs. gender. The training in its entirety combined with her particular workshop both highlighted our cultural differences when it comes to gender roles but it deconstructed them as well. Our Ghanaian peer eductors may not see eye to eye with us when it comes to a woman's role in society, however, they are accepting of our way of life and our choices. For example, the general concensus of the Ghanaian peer educators on a man's role is that he will be the uncontested provider, decision maker and head of the household. We as Canadians shared that both men and women can assume this role in our culture; most often this role is a partnership and shared. Although there was a struggle to understand these roles for both the Ghanaians and the Canadians, we were challenged to find a balance between tolerance and upholding our own personal values. I also think that the workshop's emphasis on gender being a social construct, which changes depending on place and time, has challenged our peer educators to reevaluate their concept of a woman's role. What they feel is a woman's role may not have changed, but I think many of them came to understand that this role is relative. It has also challenged us, as Canadians, to reciprocate and understand these differences. I have learned that I can disagree without judgment.
Finally, these differences did not seems to hinder our peer eductors from being the most friendly, accepting, and gracious hosts. Francis, one of the Ghanaian peer educators, invited us out after the training on Wednesday afternoon. He proudly invited us into his home and we met his family. We walked through the market and town, running into people we knew from the training as the afternoon went on. Eventually, our group of 5 turned into 10. We stopped at a local parlour to drink pito (millet wine) and then spent the rest of the evening walking throughout town talking with our new friends.
Today we leave for Kumasi for the weekend. I have to admit that I am excited. That said, I think I am even more excited to meet back up with our new friends to start putting our workshops together next week.
Our team has been in Konongo for one week now. I think we are all settling in very well. You know that you are adjusting when the power outages every night no longer bother you and the small school children who shout "oboroni" (or white person) at you in the market no longer seems shocking or out of sorts.
By Sarah
We spent the past four days with our fellow peer educators training and preparing for our HIV / AIDS workshops. We covered topics ranging from the modes of transmission to preventative measures. We learned how to do condom demonstrations and practiced workshop delivery.
I will admit, that when it came to the actual curriculum of the training, most of what we learned was remedial. That said, I personally found the training to be a wonderful learning experience. We did cover topics that I had questions concerning, it was a great opportunity to bond with our fellow peer educators, and it challenged my preconceptions of what I thought I knew in regards to HIV/AIDS. Obviously the biological make up of the virus does not change depending on where you are in the world. That said, the context, issues, challenges and strategies in relation to the virus are completely different here. You almost need to do a little unlearning, or shedding of your preconceived notions, before you can begin to understand the local challenges and recognize the appropriate methods of change.
While many living with HIV/AIDS in Canada experience stigma, the misconceptions and stigma associated with the virus here are very different. HIV/AIDS is a gender related issue in Africa. As a result, Lindsay, our group facilitator, ran a workshop on sex vs. gender. The training in its entirety combined with her particular workshop both highlighted our cultural differences when it comes to gender roles but it deconstructed them as well. Our Ghanaian peer eductors may not see eye to eye with us when it comes to a woman's role in society, however, they are accepting of our way of life and our choices. For example, the general concensus of the Ghanaian peer educators on a man's role is that he will be the uncontested provider, decision maker and head of the household. We as Canadians shared that both men and women can assume this role in our culture; most often this role is a partnership and shared. Although there was a struggle to understand these roles for both the Ghanaians and the Canadians, we were challenged to find a balance between tolerance and upholding our own personal values. I also think that the workshop's emphasis on gender being a social construct, which changes depending on place and time, has challenged our peer educators to reevaluate their concept of a woman's role. What they feel is a woman's role may not have changed, but I think many of them came to understand that this role is relative. It has also challenged us, as Canadians, to reciprocate and understand these differences. I have learned that I can disagree without judgment.
Finally, these differences did not seems to hinder our peer eductors from being the most friendly, accepting, and gracious hosts. Francis, one of the Ghanaian peer educators, invited us out after the training on Wednesday afternoon. He proudly invited us into his home and we met his family. We walked through the market and town, running into people we knew from the training as the afternoon went on. Eventually, our group of 5 turned into 10. We stopped at a local parlour to drink pito (millet wine) and then spent the rest of the evening walking throughout town talking with our new friends.
Today we leave for Kumasi for the weekend. I have to admit that I am excited. That said, I think I am even more excited to meet back up with our new friends to start putting our workshops together next week.
Our team has been in Konongo for one week now. I think we are all settling in very well. You know that you are adjusting when the power outages every night no longer bother you and the small school children who shout "oboroni" (or white person) at you in the market no longer seems shocking or out of sorts.
By Sarah
First Days in Konongo
Konongo-YMCA, May 6th.
One of the windows of my room faces this now familiar enclosed concrete courtyard where the communal tab is. This is where Sarah washes her laundry, Dasmani cleans the dishes and Eva washes the dirty hands of little-Nianema. The courtyard is also a place that every YMCA visitor has to cross before entering the communal hall for Church service on Sundays. Today is Sunday and this is exactly what I'm witnessing from my window. While listening to the people singing, shouting and clapping to express their faith, I look at Sarah's perfect and experienced movements and start to fall into a serious and hypnotic state of mind. Am I close to Paradise? I kind of believe it! In fact, this moment perfectly describes my first impression of Konongo.
What word would best describe Konongo? Is it a town? A village? Or simply a suburb of Kumasi? I can't say, because Konongo isn't like any place I have visited before: it doesn't look like any place that I know, people don't occupy the social space like in any other place that I know. First, this place is - like any other Ashanti community, no matter the size - lead by a chief, a queen-mother, the elders, and other members of the parliament. Our team had the chance to meet the chief at his palace. Actually, it is normally expected for every person involved in a new community project to go to the palace to receive the chief's blessing and confirmation of support. This was a good opportunity for me to practice the few words of Twi that I have learned. I must have done pretty well: Nana told me that He would be pleased to give me a Ashanti name. I don't know how usual or exceptional that is. Either ways, it is to be considered as an honor.
I know for sure that my knowing a bit of Twi makes it so much easier to establish the bases of relationships. "Maa kye, ye fra me Charles!" and all doors open wide! As wide as their smile! It doesn't take more than that to charm the many children who hang around or to get every adult encouraging you to continue your learning and to teach you new words and expressions. Hmmm... Well maybe I have something that my female colleagues don't have, something that makes it obviously easier for me to meet new people: I'm a man... and in this environment, men are socially and culturally advantaged... I hope this doesn't sound to paternalistic, but I feel that one of my roles in our team will be to ascertain that my female colleagues feel at ease in this environment and to support them in their own initiatives to meet new people, by introducing them. It seems that if I don't, men won't really show interest in chatting with them.
Apart from the social environment, I must say something about the nature around here. While on the ride from Accra to Konongo I noticed that our drive was leading us further and further into the forested areas of Ghana; exactly the kind of setting that I was expecting. Palm trees, banana and plantain trees, and many other kinds that I have never seen before... I simply couldn't stop looking at the scenery along the road. I could also notice that the further we were getting into the forest, the cooler the temperature was.
On our way here, I was secretly hoping for Konongo to be a place where I would continue to experience these positive changes. In fact, compared with the very hot, polluted and busy Accra, our new setting charmed me instantly. And you know what? I am still under its charm!
by Charles
One of the windows of my room faces this now familiar enclosed concrete courtyard where the communal tab is. This is where Sarah washes her laundry, Dasmani cleans the dishes and Eva washes the dirty hands of little-Nianema. The courtyard is also a place that every YMCA visitor has to cross before entering the communal hall for Church service on Sundays. Today is Sunday and this is exactly what I'm witnessing from my window. While listening to the people singing, shouting and clapping to express their faith, I look at Sarah's perfect and experienced movements and start to fall into a serious and hypnotic state of mind. Am I close to Paradise? I kind of believe it! In fact, this moment perfectly describes my first impression of Konongo.
What word would best describe Konongo? Is it a town? A village? Or simply a suburb of Kumasi? I can't say, because Konongo isn't like any place I have visited before: it doesn't look like any place that I know, people don't occupy the social space like in any other place that I know. First, this place is - like any other Ashanti community, no matter the size - lead by a chief, a queen-mother, the elders, and other members of the parliament. Our team had the chance to meet the chief at his palace. Actually, it is normally expected for every person involved in a new community project to go to the palace to receive the chief's blessing and confirmation of support. This was a good opportunity for me to practice the few words of Twi that I have learned. I must have done pretty well: Nana told me that He would be pleased to give me a Ashanti name. I don't know how usual or exceptional that is. Either ways, it is to be considered as an honor.
I know for sure that my knowing a bit of Twi makes it so much easier to establish the bases of relationships. "Maa kye, ye fra me Charles!" and all doors open wide! As wide as their smile! It doesn't take more than that to charm the many children who hang around or to get every adult encouraging you to continue your learning and to teach you new words and expressions. Hmmm... Well maybe I have something that my female colleagues don't have, something that makes it obviously easier for me to meet new people: I'm a man... and in this environment, men are socially and culturally advantaged... I hope this doesn't sound to paternalistic, but I feel that one of my roles in our team will be to ascertain that my female colleagues feel at ease in this environment and to support them in their own initiatives to meet new people, by introducing them. It seems that if I don't, men won't really show interest in chatting with them.
Apart from the social environment, I must say something about the nature around here. While on the ride from Accra to Konongo I noticed that our drive was leading us further and further into the forested areas of Ghana; exactly the kind of setting that I was expecting. Palm trees, banana and plantain trees, and many other kinds that I have never seen before... I simply couldn't stop looking at the scenery along the road. I could also notice that the further we were getting into the forest, the cooler the temperature was.
On our way here, I was secretly hoping for Konongo to be a place where I would continue to experience these positive changes. In fact, compared with the very hot, polluted and busy Accra, our new setting charmed me instantly. And you know what? I am still under its charm!
by Charles
Our week in Accra
April 28-May 04
After a short layover in Lagos, our group arrived at Kotoka International airport in the heavy humidity of late afternoon Accra. Customs was quick and painless; baggage collection less so. At first, two bags were missing: mine and Rochelle's, with the explanation that they had been left behind in Legos, and would arrive the next day. My bag ended up showing up, but Rochelle's unfortunately did not. She took it like a trooper however, and made friends with Collins the baggage agent. This turned out to be handy when it was necessary to present a bribe in order to claim her bags the next day!
We met Samuel Anin, our Accra host and the chairman of YMCA Ghana. He very graciously hosted us on the YMCA Adabraka compound: most of us in the girls and boys' annexes, and the leaders and a few lucky participants in the (air conditioned!) guesthouse.
The first night was interesting, and overwhelming. In the annexes we had power and water outages, which made for a hot sticky night in the 80-90% humidity, 30 degree C weather. Nevertheless, I slept soundly, and Natasha and I woke early and easily to the sounds of birdsong and a rooster crowing.
The next day we visited La Beach- amazing! Beautiful warm water, and lots of friendly people who couldn't wait to touch us, talk to us, and ask about immigrating to Canada! We took it easy that day, splashing around, learning our first words of Twi and Ewe, and eating yummy Ghanaian food.
On Monday we had a welcoming ceremony, featuring prominent community members, and most importantly, attended by our 50 peer educators, who travelled hours from their respective homes in order to attend. The ceremony was wonderful- the Canadians presented an original song written by Karine, and a rendition of "Let it Shine" with the lyrics changed to reflect the purpose of our trip.
The rest of the week was spent alternately taking part in acclimatization workshops, and exploring Accra. The Makola market received several visits, as did 'Busy Internet', the ex-pat hangout/internet cafe. When it came time to leave Accra we were excited about the adventure ahead, but very sad about separating from our new friends, both in Accra and amongst the group. The 11 participants grew very close during the two weeks in Toronto and Accra, and splitting into two groups to be stationed across the country from one another was bittersweet. Nevertheless, we comforted ourselves with the prospect of a meet-up midway at Cape Coast, and with the excitement of the journey ahead.
By Michelle
After a short layover in Lagos, our group arrived at Kotoka International airport in the heavy humidity of late afternoon Accra. Customs was quick and painless; baggage collection less so. At first, two bags were missing: mine and Rochelle's, with the explanation that they had been left behind in Legos, and would arrive the next day. My bag ended up showing up, but Rochelle's unfortunately did not. She took it like a trooper however, and made friends with Collins the baggage agent. This turned out to be handy when it was necessary to present a bribe in order to claim her bags the next day!
We met Samuel Anin, our Accra host and the chairman of YMCA Ghana. He very graciously hosted us on the YMCA Adabraka compound: most of us in the girls and boys' annexes, and the leaders and a few lucky participants in the (air conditioned!) guesthouse.
The first night was interesting, and overwhelming. In the annexes we had power and water outages, which made for a hot sticky night in the 80-90% humidity, 30 degree C weather. Nevertheless, I slept soundly, and Natasha and I woke early and easily to the sounds of birdsong and a rooster crowing.
The next day we visited La Beach- amazing! Beautiful warm water, and lots of friendly people who couldn't wait to touch us, talk to us, and ask about immigrating to Canada! We took it easy that day, splashing around, learning our first words of Twi and Ewe, and eating yummy Ghanaian food.
On Monday we had a welcoming ceremony, featuring prominent community members, and most importantly, attended by our 50 peer educators, who travelled hours from their respective homes in order to attend. The ceremony was wonderful- the Canadians presented an original song written by Karine, and a rendition of "Let it Shine" with the lyrics changed to reflect the purpose of our trip.
The rest of the week was spent alternately taking part in acclimatization workshops, and exploring Accra. The Makola market received several visits, as did 'Busy Internet', the ex-pat hangout/internet cafe. When it came time to leave Accra we were excited about the adventure ahead, but very sad about separating from our new friends, both in Accra and amongst the group. The 11 participants grew very close during the two weeks in Toronto and Accra, and splitting into two groups to be stationed across the country from one another was bittersweet. Nevertheless, we comforted ourselves with the prospect of a meet-up midway at Cape Coast, and with the excitement of the journey ahead.
By Michelle
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